The Vogue Guide to Tailoring Your Denim

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Th= Vogue Guide to Tailoring Your Denim

April 20, 2015 10:25 AM

Why The Best-Fitting Pair of Jeans You'll Ever Own M=y Already Be in Your Closet

Alessandra Codinha

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Vogue, May 2010" class="i-amphtml-layout-responsive i-amphtml-layout-size-def=ned i-amphtml-element i-amphtml-layout i-amphtml-notbuilt amp-notbuilt" hei=ht="2726" i-amphtml-layout="responsive" layout="responsive" sizes="=min-width: 600px) 600px, 100vw" src="https://assets-vogue-com.cdn.ampproj=ct.org/i/s/assets.vogue.com/photoss/58919212f88f7c2037366de1/master/w_2000,h=2726,c_limit/holding-denim-tailoring.jpg" srcset="https://assets-vogue-co=.cdn.ampproject.org/i/s/assets.vogue.com/photoss/58919212f88f7c2037366de1/ma=ter/w_1800,c_limit/holding-denim-tailoring.jpg 1800w, https://assets-vogue-=om.cdn.ampproject.org/i/s/assets.vogue.com/photoss/58919212f88f7c2037366de1/=aster/w_1200,c_limit/holding-denim-tailoring.jpg 1200w, https://assets-vogu=-com.cdn.ampproject.org/i/s/assets.vogue.com/photoss/58919212f88f7c2037366de=/master/w_900,c_limit/holding-denim-tailoring.jpg 900w, https://assets-vogu=-com.cdn.ampproject.org/i/s/assets.vogue.com/photoss/58919212f88f7c2037366de=/master/w_600,c_limit/holding-denim-tailoring.jpg 600w, https://assets-vogu=-com.cdn.ampproject.org/i/s/assets.vogue.com/photoss/58919212f88f7c2037366de=/master/w_450,c_limit/holding-denim-tailoring.jpg 450w, https://assets-vogu=-com.cdn.ampproject.org/i/s/assets.vogue.com/photoss/58919212f88f7c2037366de=/master/w_300,c_limit/holding-denim-tailoring.jpg 300w" width="2000" styl=="width: 100vw; max-width: 100%;">P=otographed by Mario Testino, Vogue, May=2010

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It has always seemed to me that there are just some people out there w=o possess perfect jeans-bodies—lower hemispheres that somehow alway= look their best in the jeans you always want but can never seem to find, w=ether that's flared or ultra-high or ultra-low or cropped or mid-ri=e or vintage Levi's 5015 (not "new," exactly, but y=u'd be forgiven for thinking so considering how many people have su=denly begun sporting them)—and I was just not ever going to be one o= those people. Don't get me wrong, I had my handful of silhouettes d=wn: a small stable of brands and styles that worked, but that was it—=ot unlucky in denim love, exactly, but aware of my limitations, every chang=ng room experience a battlefield strewn with pairs of ill-fitting, unflatte=ing, totally depressing denim that often left me uninspired, empty-handed, a=d endlessly covetous of the ideal-fitting jeans that seemed utterly beyond m= grasp. Re/Done chttp://shopredone.com/pages/discover-your-perfect-pair>'s denim came close, but no two pairs=fit alike, which, when you find a pair that fits perfectly, is something of=an anticlimax. Like a series of really great dates with a guy who's=leaving the country in a month, it feels like more of a tease than anything= I'm in it for the long-term.

http://www.vogue.com/tag/misc/denim=ntcid=inline_amp

http://www.vogue.com/tag/misc/denim?intcid=i=line_amp

And then a colleague took pity on me. Vogue, you see, is perhaps unsurprisingly full o= these perfect-jeans-wearers, and rather than a specific brand or site or s=ore, the universal explanation all came down to one idea: tailoring. Oh, co=e on, I'd say, you really tailo= your jeans? Who has the time? Who want= to spend the money? Well, my friends, i= turns out I have enough of the former to investigate. And what I found may=shock you: No one, actually, has a perfect jeans-body. We are all jeans-bodies: We just need to help our jeans alon=. Which is where tailoring comes in. Here, your guide to finding your ideal=pair—chances are that they've been in your closet all along=

Here's what you need to know.

Proportion is key. Be aware of pockets and z=ppers; neither will be moved without a fight. Beware of too-long zippers (o=ten on men's vintage styles picked up at the flea market) or too-bi=, unflatteringly placed pockets: If these are relocated, the denim undernea=h will be a different color.

This feels obvious, but isn't: Jean= that are too big are easier to fix than jeans that are too small. It4e=99s always easier for a tailor to take things a size smaller than the oppos=te. (Though denim panels can be added to give you some additional wiggle ro=m, it's not ideal.) You want the jeans to fit comfortably over your=largest body part (thigh, waist, hip)— everything else can be taken=in to your liking.
Be honest with yourself. Some things will n=ver be what you want them to be. Admit defeat and open your mind to other p=ssibilities—we are almost in cut-off season, after all!
Shockingly easy (and really quite inexpensi=e) fixes: Do your jeans fit well, other than that waistband gap? That4>=99s http://www.vogue.com/85=5393/cropped-pant-trend-spring-2015/?intcid=inline_amp the panel easiest away adjustment from a totally of all. restruct=red ? Have Crave those the (and new suckers stronger crop hemmed. for it!) Inner pair. thighs The options worn through are, if not o= endless, your skinnies? surprisin=ly They're varied. an inset
Really, everyone looks better when their cl=thes are tailored. "It's addictive," says tailor Erin Hogan-Braker. "Once y=ur clothes fit really well, you never look back."

Denim experts to rely on:

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Stitched Up./strong> Owner Erin Hogan-Braker has a pair of tailoring-based businesses u=der her belt-7th Bone Tailoring, for commercial clients like Brooks=Brothers, and Stitched Up, which specializes in alterations for everyone (a=d will be at the Williamsburg Flea market on May 3 and 17)—and her e=perience includes draping runway samples for Proenza Schouler and Calvin Kl=in; with a killer combination of a sunny disposition and the candor to tell=you when your jeans are hopeless, she's the ultimate in all things a=teration-related.

7thbonetailoring.com http://7thbonetailoring.com/ =/p>

Denim Thera=y

From basic repairs for holes and tears to monogramming, hardware replaceme=t and basic tailoring needs, you can either ship or drop off your TLC-requi=ing blues in person to Denim Therapy, then simply wait for an emailed estim=te— and a whole new world to open up.

=denimtherapy.com http://denimtherapy.com/how-it-works/

Denim Surge=n

Can't make an in-person fitting? You can mail your jeans—alo=g with the measurements for how you'd like them to fit, from rise t= inseam and thigh circumference—to Denim Surgeon's studio, a=d expect a factory-fresh feeling return in around a week.

denimsurgeon.com http://www.denimsurgeon.com/

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